May 10, 2016
Are these wines destined to be Sierra foothill classics?
A couple of months ago, Matt Kramer mused about potential “new classics” – wines of enduring greatness – in his Drinking Out Loud column for Wine Spectator.
To define what he means by classic, Kramer turned to noir writer Raymond Chandler. A classic piece of writing, said Chandler, “exhausts the possibilities of its form and can hardly be surpassed.”...My list, which at first ran to 38 candidates, is devoted to wines I’ve found consistently to provide quality and value, vintage after vintage. They are exceptionally expressive of what they are intended to be. They are wines of vitality, complexity and persistence. They proudly represent stewardship and place. I like to think they would be giving me as much joy 50 years from now as they do today. Here’s my mixed case:...
▪ Holly’s Hill Vineyards El Dorado Grenache Noir ($22): At Holly’s Hill Vineyards in the Pleasant Valley district of El Dorado County, the Cooper and Bendick families are showing that grenache can give up a wine of remarkable layering and force, fresh and fruity with suggestions of cranberry, strawberry and plum, punctuated with dashes of peppery spice.